Italia

Featured : Firenze | Milano | Vespa

“You may have the universe if I may have Italy.” – Giuseppe Verdi

"Vechio" by Longino - Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via commons.wikimedia.org — “Vechio” by Longing, via commons.wikimedia.org

Contents for Milano : My Estate

Vespa : Photo Galleries of Central and Northern Italy

Introduction to Firenze. The most populated city in Tuscany, Florence can be described in a single word : ravishing. As the birthplace of the Renaissance, its historical significance as a hub of banking, cuisine and trading beginning in the 14th century cannot be overstated. Its radiant glow, especially at sunset when the city’s skyline is bathed in gold, merely hints at her architectural splendor. The perfect time to visit is Autumn or Spring. But understand, hundreds of thousands of other travelers have reached the same conclusion. Don’t be surprised, therefore, by the number of people filling the streets and piazzas, which are so densely crowded at times, you will wonder if they ever empty. They don’t. Ever. The city is packed year-round, a situation made even more obvious by many of Florence’s narrow, byzantine streets. Ironically, this is one of her charms. And everyone, from experienced photographers to those traveling with smartphones, is taking pictures. You will find, however, when you have that perfect shot framed in your screen, whether it be at the Duomo, the Galleria degli Uffizi, or of Michelangelo’s spectacular David, people will kindly step out of your way…an interesting result of the city’s rapturous hold on her visitors.

You don’t need to be a fan of architecture to appreciate the design and brilliant construction techniques of the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, commonly referred to as “The Duomo.” After nearly 150 years of construction, the Duomo was completed in 1436. Although it was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, the building’s hallmark is its red-tiled dome by Filippo Brunelleschi. It’s hard to tell what makes the structure so fascinating–Cambio’s beautiful and methodical architecture, so apparent from the outside. Or, Brunelleschi’s dome, an engineering masterpiece the scope and scale of which needs to be appreciated from within.

“Florence Cathedral” by Florian Hirzinger, licensed under commons.wikimedia.org

With more than 1,500 original works, the Galleria degli Uffizi houses the world’s greatest collection of Renaissance art in a building commissioned and owned by the city’s famous and powerful Medici family. Designed by Giorgio Vasari, the Uffizi features masterpieces by Botticelli, Caravaggio, Giotto, Leonardo da Vinci and others throughout nearly 50 rooms.

“…the Creator made Italy from designs by Michelangelo.” – Mark Twain

The collections, which are designed to be seen and appreciated in chronological order, are so extensive it takes a couple of visits to see everything. No trip to Florence would be complete without experiencing it, however. To avoid the queue altogether at its entrance, which can easily cost you half a day, reserve your tickets ahead of time at the Galleria’s online booking page.

"The Birth of Venus," or Nascita di Venere by Sandro Botticelli. Commissioned by the Medici family. — “The Birth of Venus,” or Nascita di Venere by Sandro Botticelli. Commissioned by the Medici family.

As you travel throughout the city’s numerous attractions you should expect large crowds and wait times, none of which compare to that which will greet you at the Galleria dell’ Accademia–and for very good reason. Another gift from the Medicis, the institution served as a modern-day lab for artists. What draws people now of course is Michelangelo’s Statue of David, a sculpture so stunning it’s not uncommon for people’s breath to be taken away. Its attention to details, ever menacing gaze, height and sheer scale must be experienced in person.

Located near the Santa Maria Novella station in the heart of the city’s San Lorenzo district, the Hotel Corona was more than a pleasant surprise. The building itself, made of stone, gives the illusion of being stately and historic on the inside. I found it, however, to be contemporary enough for the modern traveler while acknowledging in subtle ways its presence in the heart of renaissance Florence. The staff is friendly and fluent in a number of languages; the public spaces are clean; the rooms are immaculate and spacious; the mattresses comfortable; and the bathrooms are huge, tiled in a beautiful shade of aqua marine, and featuring both a large tub and a shower stall. I was impressed with the price of my room which was far below what I would have expected to pay. Within walking distance is the Statue of David, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, San Lorenzo Church and the Santa Maria Novella Basilica.

“For us to go to Italy and to penetrate into Italy is like a most fascinating act of self-discovery.” – D.H. Lawrence

We traveled from southeastern France via Eurail into Florence. The city’s Santa Maria Novella Train Station, despite the fact its more than 80 years old, is surprisingly modern and accessible. There is rail service to several Italian cities nearby as well as regular bus service to the city’s international airport, Amerigo Vespucci.

Travel Tip # 01. Milan is Italy’s undisputed capital of fashion. Make no mistake, however, when it comes to Florence. Her citizens, acutely aware of their city’s place in the world of art and culture, can hold their own. When you pack, bring clothes which are comfortable but stylish. Leave the sweatshirts, sandals and fanny packs at home. Even more importantly, pack light and be prepared to bring clothes back with you, along with leather goods.

Travel Tip # 02. To avoid the queue at museums, reserve your tickets online as far in advance as possible. There is a shared site for all the major museums and the prices are nominal.

Contents for Milano : My Estate

Introduction. During a road trip to Milan, a buddy recalled visiting a private estate just outside the city limits years before (it is actually known as the Modern Art Gallery at Villa Reale.) It was a vivid memory, made so in part by the black and white swans he recalled seeing in a small stream behind the building. I’m not entirely sure how we found the estate years later but we did.

Chapter 1. I wandered throughout the first and second floors, noticing certain rooms were cordoned off. The docents were strict and turned people away who attempted to circumvent the ropes, while other areas had strictly enforced restrictions on taking pictures. One, however, allowed me to enter a large room and take photos. Light poured in through the floor-to-ceiling windows, cutting through the morning fog, and making the marble floors glow with incandescence. Still other staff members and even some guards consistently acknowledged my presence with polite nods of respect. When we left, the estate’s chief who was posted at the entrance, made a concerted effort to bid me farewell with what appeared to be a genuinely felt invitation to return whenever I wanted.

Chapter 2. Flash forward a couple of years and another buddy informed our circle of mates a psychic, renowned in Thailand, was visiting the States and making a stop in Washington, DC. If you’re wondering how this is related to the estate, bear with me as I’ll connect the proverbial dots.

Chapter 3. We figured seeing her would be fun and were advised to bring a personal item, about which we had not shared with anyone (the picture below fulfilled this perfectly.)

When we arrived, it seemed as if Washington’s entire Thai population had turned out en masse to see her. We patiently waited and when I met the psychic I handed her the photo in an envelope. She held it in one hand and mine with the other quietly for a moment. She then turned to the translator and spoke, constantly pointing to the envelope before turning her gaze on me. And then the translator turned to me and explained…

In a past life, four hundred years prior, I was the owner of this estate. The docents and guards recognized this in me which is why I was allowed to roam freely in ways that were not afforded others. The chief’s invitation for me to return, something I had not disclosed to anyone, was extended because I was “home.”

Chapter 4. I admit I cannot explain the visit with the psychic. As far as the people who appear in the picture above outside the entrance, this begs a not-so-obvious question : who invited them and why are they on my lawn ?

Introduction to Vespa. My cousin Anthony, having been struck with wanderlust, traveled with family to central and northern Italy. What emerged from the trip―besides a new-found love affair for la dolce vita―is an appreciation for what the artistic and observant eye can capture.

“Italian cities have long been held up as ideals, not least by New Yorkers and Londoners enthralled by the ways their architecture gives beauty and meaning to everyday acts.” ― Rebecca Solnit

“Rome seems a comfort to those with the ambitious soul of an Artist or a Conqueror.” ― Pietros Maneos

Photo Gallery I :

“Watching Italians eat is a form of tourism the books don’t tell you about. They close their eyes, raise their eyebrows into accent marks, and make sounds of acute appreciation. It’s fairly sexy.” ― Barbara Kingsolver,

Photo Gallery II :

“The name of Italy has magic in its very syllables.” ― Mary Shelley

Photo Gallery III :

“You’ve got to see Venice, a city of slender towers and white domes, sleeping in the water like a mass of water lilies. You’ve got to see dark waterways, mysterious threads of shadow, binding all these flowers of stone together.” ― E. Temple Thurston