Welcome to a new page devoted to England. Most of the content is devoted to London, a spectacular global city that has embraced modernity with a skyline of stunning new architecture, while simultaneously honouring her history, dating back to Roman times. Travel advice and useful tips for Bath, Manchester and Stonehenge are also featured.
“England has two books, the Bible and Shakespeare. England made Shakespeare, but the Bible made England.” ― Victor Hugo
Guide to Bath, England : Introduction | Getting There | Bath Abbey | In and Around the City | Parade Gardens | Roman Baths | Royal Crescent | The Stable Pub | Stonehenge | Stonehenge : A Photo Gallery
Getting Around London : Heathrow Airport | Heathrow Airport App | Transportation Summary | Detailed Information on Transportation to Downtown
Guide to London : Big Ben | Big Bus Company | Boxing Day | British Airways | British Museum | British Museum Photo Galleries | Charing Cross | Citizen M Hotels | Downtown London | Halepi Restaurant & Kebab House | Hyde Park | Kensington Gardens & Palace | Leinster Terrace | Libations, i.e., Carling Ale and Einstök Icelandic Pale Ale | The London Eye | Machine-A Store | The National Gallery | Oyster Visitor Travel Cards | Palace of Westminster | Porchester Terrace | Pret-a-Manger | Randomness and Fleet Street | The Royal Courts of Justice | The Shard & 62 Buckingham Place | Sir John Soane Museum | Stonehenge | The Tate Modern | Thai Square Restaurant | The Thames and London Bridge | The Thistle Hyde Park | Amba Marble Arch Hotel | The Lounge | The Glenn Miller Bar | The Thistle Kensington Gardens | The Tower Bridge | Treadwell’s Restaurant | The Underground | Victoria and Albert Museum | Westminster | Where to Stay in London | Ye Grapes | Zizzi Ristorante
Guide to Manchester : Introduction | Beetham Tower | Black Sheep Coffee | Downtown Photo Gallery | Manchester Art Gallery | Manchester Art Gallery & Nordic Craft and Design Exhibition | Manchester Museum | Manchester Central Rail Station | Try Thai Restaurant | The Velvet Hotel
Upcoming content includes : Manchester Central Rail Station | Try Thai Restaurant | The Velvet Hotel
“This precious stone set in the silver sea, which serves it in the office of a wall. This blessed plot, this earth, this realm, this England.” ― William Shakespeare
Introduction to Bath, England. She may very well be one of the country’s best kept secrets. Located in the county of Somerset, Bath is famous for its Roman spas, temple and mineral hot springs. While that in and of itself makes the city, named a World Heritage Site, a noteworthy destination, it also offers a host of other attractions, not the least of which is being the home to Jane Austen.
The presence of its namesake college, Bath Spa University and the University of Bath give the area a youthful energy and vibrancy. There is a number of cultural attractions, museums, restaurants, pubs, shops and sport venues, along with the towering Bath Abbey, a gorgeous tribute to Georgian architecture and John Wood’s Royal Crescent.
Getting There. If you have a rental car, a drive to this great city is a must, along with an overnight stay or two as Bath is a destination unto itself. Otherwise, one cannot go wrong with the tour company, Viator, a service we have used in other countries. Choose the Bath / Stonehenge day trip and you will cover significant areas which might not be entirely possible on your own in a single day. The tour includes :
― Stonehenge
― exploring Bath, Circus and Royal Crescent
― Parade Gardens
― a visit to the Roman Baths and Jane Austen Visitor Centre
Our bus, roomy and comfortable, left London early in the morning and included an excellent, funny and informative tour guide named Gavin. After lunch, we traveled to Salisbury Plain to see Stonehenge.
Dating back to the 12th and 16th centuries, Bath Abbey is known for its stained glass windows, vaulted ceilings and in particular, the statues of angels on her exterior ascending to heaven.
In and Around the City :
Parade Gardens :
The Roman Baths are an architectural and natural wonder, comprised of the Bath House; a museum; the Roman Temple; and the Sacred Spring. The mineral rich waters of the surrounding area were originally believed to have curative powers.
The Royal Crescent. The city has other famous architectural sites, the most noteworthy of which is John Wood’s dramatic and striking row of houses laid out in a semi-circle and the subject of countless photographic tributes, particularly at sunset during the much sought-after golden hour.
The Stable. After spending most of the day exploring the Abbey, Roman baths and shops, we stopped for a break and found a table outside The Stable. The pub―which has locations in Bristol, Cardiff, Exeter, Plymouth and South Hampton―is known for its extensive selection of ciders crafted from local, small-scale producers.
“There is no bad whiskey. There are only some whiskeys that aren’t as good as others.” ― Raymond Chandler
The dedication to local ingredients and hand-crafted beverages shows and the excellent staff encourages sampling until you find the right cider. We immediately bonded with the Black Dragon, Craft Cider and Crazy Goat varieties and spent time enjoying the beautiful weather and people-watching. We enjoyed their Marguerita pizza, too. Our food, beverages and vantage point were the perfect way to conclude the day. I recommend the pub highly.
Stonehenge. Located 145km southwest from London along the A303 highway stands one of the world’s greatest mysteries, that of Stonehenge.
Built thousands of years ago, the site has never lost its allure or revealed her ancient secrets. Declared a world heritage site by UNESCO, questions still remain as to whether it is a burial site or if its original purpose was astronomical.
To travel there, we used Viator tours and opted for their combined Bath, England and Stonehenge day trip. It is far easier than renting a car and the tour guide offers indispensable information.
The buses originate early in the morning from Victoria Station and proceed directly to the ancient site. From there, you then spend the rest of the day in Bath, touring the Abbey, the Jane Austen Visitor Centre, River Avon and Roman Baths, all of which are worthy of your time.
Photo Gallery | Stonehenge :
LONDON, ENGLAND
Getting around London. One of the benefits of the city’s Heathrow Airport, which serves the capital as well as the greater United Kingdom, is its proximity to the downtown area, slightly more than 20km. Despite the airport’s huge size and reputation among regular travelers as a horrible maze, navigating it is easily accomplished as the signage, particularly since graphic design updates were made for the 2012 Summer Olympics, is very clear.
The airport’s app is excellent. Designed for both Android and Apple platforms, it allows you to :
― check the weather at your onward destination;
― plan your onward journey and connections;
― receive live flight updates and travel notifications;
― reserve Heathrow Long Stay Parking;
― see your Heathrow Rewards balance and redeem rewards;
― see restaurant and shopping offers; and
― view maps of the terminal to find your way around.
Here is a summary of transportation options available to the downtown area followed by more detailed instructions :
― Cabs, for door-to-door service
― Heathrow Connect links to rail stations downtown
― Heathrow Express links to Paddington Station
― Rail-Air Bus Links
― Underground
― Travel and Oyster Cards
― Map of the Underground
Cabs. London’s famous black taxis are available at all of Heathrow’s terminals. Their reputation as reliable is well-earned and the cost is based on the distance traveled from your arrival terminal to your onward destination. You will not be presented with hidden fees or taxes, a great source of pride as the city has strict licensing requirements for its taxi drivers. There are information desks in each Arrival Hall where you can request pick-up but you can also reserve online in advance for a fixed price. If you are traveling to the neighborhoods of West London, you may want to consider Heathrow Connect, linking the airport to the following local rail stations :
― Ealing / Broadway
― Hayes & Harlington
― Paddington
― Southall
― West Ealing
The trains are clean and modern, and if your destination is near one of the above-referenced stops, it’s ideal as the prices are reasonable. Service runs approximately every half hour. If you are traveling to other parts of the city, however, you may want to consider Heathrow Express, offering train service every 15 minutes from Central Station to downtown’s Paddington where you then transfer to the Underground. The trains run like clockwork, feature WiFi, are clean and affordable. If you purchase round trip, there’s also a savings over buying two separate, one-way tickets.
― If you arrive at Terminals 1 or 3, follow the signage for Trains.
― If you arrive at Terminal 4, you need to transfer to Terminals 1 / 3 and follow the signage for the Inter-Terminal Shuttle.
― If you arrive at Terminal 5, use the elevators or escalators in the Arrivals Hall to the Basement Level.
If your destination is near the larger rail stations, you may want to use the Rail-Air Bus Link, offering bus transport and transfers. You may purchase your ticket at Heathrow or Reading Rail Station. Consider booking directly online with Rail Air via their website. And no trip to London would be complete without using the Underground where service from the airport to downtown takes just under an hour. The trains run every few minutes and cost less than US$ 8.00. You can also buy a single, one way fare or purchase a 7-day Travel Card or Oyster Visitor Travel Card. With the Travel Card you have unlimited use of the bus, DLR, London Overground, National Rail, tram and tube services, based on the number of zones for which you have prepaid.
The Oyster Visitor Travel Card is a pay-as-you-go option; the cards never expire; and you can add funds to it throughout the Oyster Ticket Stops, Travel Information Centers or Tubes. They can also be delivered to you at your home address prior to your departure for a nominal fee.
For a side-by-side comparison of the two cards, click here; and for a map of the Underground, click here.
Guide to London : Big Ben | Big Bus Company | Boxing Day | British Airways | British Museum | British Museum Photo Galleries | Charing Cross | Citizen M Hotels | Downtown London | Emilia’s Crafted Pasta | Halepi Restaurant & Kebab House | Hyde Park | Kensington Gardens & Palace | Leinster Terrace | Libations, i.e., Carling Ale and Einstök Icelandic Pale Ale | The London Eye | Machine-A Store | Oyster Visitor Travel Cards | Palace of Westminster | Porchester Terrace | Pret-a-Manger | Randomness and Fleet Street | The Royal Courts of Justice | The Shard & 62 Buckingham Place | The Thames and London Bridge | The Thistle Hyde Park | Amba Marble Arch Hotel | The Lounge | The Glenn Miller Bar | The Thistle Kensington Gardens | The Tower Bridge | Westminster | Ye Grapes | Zizzi Ristorante
Ben is big. Really big. The iconic tower, officially known as Elizabeth Tower, is such an integral part of the Palace of Westminster, it sometimes outshines the neo-Gothic building at its base. Its nickname, Big Ben, refers not to the tower itself, but its largest bell, Ben, which is rumoured to have been named after Sir Benjamin Hall.
I am not a fan of the typical tourist agendas but I make an exception when in London and use its local franchise of Big Bus, a tour service operating in some of the world’s most noteworthy cities. The reason is two-fold : first, Big Bus covers almost the entire city, which is huge and nearly impossible to navigate exclusively by foot, or even via the Underground, over a few days. And second, the buses pick up and drop off passengers at almost every stop already in use by the city’s famous double-decker buses. Your options, therefore, for stopping and walking and then boarding another bus a few blocks away are seemingly endless. Here are just some of the major places and sites along its route :
― Kensington Gardens, directly in front of the Thistle Hotel
― Paddington Station
― Marble Arch neighborhood and Madame Tussaud’s
― BBC, Oxford & Piccadilly Circuses
― National Gallery, Charing Cross and Westminster
― Westminster Bridge, the London Eye, Covent Garden
― London Bridge and the Tower of London
― Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Harrod’s
― Notting Hill
Tickets can be obtained for UK$ 31.00 / person and kiosks are located throughout the city. Valid for 48 hours from the time they are purchased, they include a complimentary river cruise along the Thames. The buses are clean, run every few minutes and feature audio guides in a number of languages. At many stops, there are coordinators who are able to answer questions and offer assistance. We toured the entire city a number of times and recommend it highly.
A holiday celebrated throughout the United Kingdom, Boxing Day is traditionally where employers give their employees Christmas gifts, i.e., boxes. It has been transformed into a day similar to Black Friday in North America―the day after the Thanksgiving holiday―where shopping rules the day and sales are to be had everywhere.
We spent the morning safe and secure on one of the city’s double-deckers, warm from the cold and wind and the hundreds of thousands of people who packed the shopping districts of King’s and Oxford’s streets.
British Airways has bragging rights as “the world’s favourite airline.” If it was a mere advertising gimmick, it would be inviting travelers to line the company up in their cross-hairs. But it’s not as the airline continually strives to raise the level of customer service to new heights.
“The moment you doubt whether you can fly, you cease for ever to be able to do it.” ― J.M. Barrie
The stars must have aligned in our favour as there was a mix-up with our seats resulting in a complimentary upgrade to business class. Their signature Club World cabin on the Airbus is noticeably larger and sleeker than the one I enjoyed on the airline’s Boeing 747 counterpart during an earlier trip. The dinner menu was impressive; the wine list was extensive, as were the aperitifs and liqueurs available. The customer service which accompanied it was nothing less than excellent. The multilingual flight crew was attentive, friendly and they took a great deal of pride in representing not just their airline but their home countries, too.
Update. I recently flew British Airways again. Thanks to extra frequent flier miles which needed to be redeemed and a rare opportunity to upgrade last-minute to their Club World cabin, I was determined to cross the proverbial pond in style.
Their business class cabins feature comfortable seats with the capability of becoming fully flat beds. The space includes personal lighting, a privacy screen, a storage locker, a TV screen with substantial entertainment options and a work desk. The menu was impressive and rounding it out was an equally noteworthy wine list which included champagne, and red and white varietals from California and France.
Like New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art and Paris’ Louvre, the scale of the British Museum can only be appreciated in person as pictures don’t capture the building’s sheer size and scope. The famed cultural institution is so large, it’s best to plan on visiting it over a few days.
Established in the 1700’s, the famed institution’s collection easily exceeds 8 million objects and pieces of art. Some of those are controversial as they were obtained during the height of the British Empire and their ownership is contested by other countries.
Its ground floor is the location of the world-renowned Ancient Lives, Assyrian and Egyptian Galleries. It took a full day to experience them and we arrived, it should be noted, when the museum opened its doors that morning.
Photo Gallery I :
“Museums are places of worship for those whose faith dwells in human stories.” ― anonymous
Photo Gallery II :
Relief of Greek Warrior. The serpent at the base represents the soul of the deceased.
“Here, the goddess Venus is surprised as she bathes, her water jar resting under her left thigh. Her beautiful head is turned nervously to one side, perhaps in the direction of an intruder.”
The great pharaoh Ramesses II guards over the museum’s Egyptian Sculpture Gallery in Room 4 :
The city’s Cockspur, Strand and Whitehall Streets all converge south of Trafalgar Square into the roundabout Charing Cross. The irony of the first street cannot be lost on those gathering there as it’s marked by a statue of a large blue rooster sculpted by German artist Katharina Fritsch.
The neighbourhood should be on your must-see list as it’s the location of the Statue of Charles I; Nelson’s Column, honouring Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson who died at the Battle of Trafalgar; and most importantly, The National Gallery, one of the greatest art museums in the world.
“Don’t go to a museum with a destination. Museums are wormholes to other worlds. They are ecstasy machines.” ― Jerry Saltz
The Gallery is home to some of the world’s greatest paintings, like Sebastiano del Piombo’s, “The Raising of Lazarus.” Expecting to see them all in a single day is an exercise in futility.
You may want to visit the various galleries over a couple of days instead. Ensure you make time to enjoy sitting outside the Gallery’s entrance, an area characterized by beautiful fountains and cafes.
For those who think London is stodgy, your perception will be turned on its head with CitizenM Hotels.
Hip, modern and reasonably priced, it’s as if the editors of Wallpaper* magazine―considered sacred text for style aficionados everywhere―had dinner with the most noteworthy designers across Scandinavia and then given blank canvases, from which they created the ultimate accommodations for savvy travelers.
“You don’t have to make something that people call art. Living is an artistic activity…there is an art to getting through the day.” ― V
Their CitizenM Hotel Bankside property is located in the heart of the city near the Tate Museum and perfect for those looking for something above and beyond the bigger hotel chains.
We stayed in their Tower of London property. You could not ask for a more convenient location, i.e., above the Tower Hill Underground station, across from the historic Tower of London and well within view of The Shard.
Arriving and obtaining your room keys is a breeze and you can check in online prior. The lounges scattered throughout the first floor and at the top of the building invite long conversations, more often than not, well into sunrise.
There’s a coffee bar located at the entrance where lattes and cappuccinos can be ordered and enjoyed near the large windows looking out onto the city.
The hotel’s cantina is also located on the first floor and features coffee beverages to order, great breakfasts, take away available 24 hours a day and an excellent bar staff.
The staff completely redefines excellent customer service and possess a genuine warmth and affability that exceeds all expectations. We quickly made friends with Jacqueline, Matt and Navid, all of whom went out of their way to make our stay special.
“Anything I can not transform into something marvelous, I let go. Reality doesn’t impress me.” ― Anais Nin
This hotel is too cool. Ensure you activate the HD option. Please note, this file may not be copied, distributed or downloaded without the express consent of the copyright holders.
The guest rooms, although compact, are brilliantly designed and feature personalized iPads which allow you to control ambient light for the shower pods, lights, music, room temperature and window blinds.
There are myriad, pre-set moods, too, for specific lighting and music combinations.
Photo Gallery | CitizenM Tower of London :
The property’s jewel in the crown is their CloudM bar, a 2-story glass lounge at the top of the hotel.
Artisan cocktails, snacks and comfortable sitting areas fill the space and allow unparalleled views of the City. There are quiet areas, too, for those struck with wanderlust and writing about their travels in this great hotel.
Downtown London. From the airport to the CitzenM Tower of London hotel :
It is entirely possible to have a great plate of pasta in London―yes, London. The city has shaken off its mantle as a haven for forgettable and bland food and transformed itself into a global, culinary powerhouse. One can meander through a number of neighborhoods and find very good-to-excellent Brazilian, French, Italian, Moroccan and Spanish cuisines, to name just a few.
Emilia’s Crafted Pasta is a must. Located at St. Katherine Docks, less than a 10-minute walk from Tower Hill, this charming and intimate restaurant has a well-earned reputation as destination dining when it comes to Italian cuisine in London. It was, in fact, recommended to us by the staff at CitizenM Tower of London.
There are a handful a tables inside and a bar running the length of its front window facing the water. There are tables outside that are perfect, weather permitting, for dining al fresco.
The menu is small, and the list of dishes changes regularly depending on the season. The pasta is spectacular, made daily and with a variety of fresh sauces.
“Everything you see I owe to spaghetti.” ― Sophia Loren
How good is the food ? On our first visit, we stopped by for dinner. Sitting behind us was a table of family and friends from Rome. They were still there when we left and we were there for a couple of hours. There is no greater endorsement for an Italian restaurant. We dine there each time we visit London; the staff and the service are without equal.
Photo Gallery | Emilia’s Pasta Bar :
Near the Thistle Kensington Gardens Hotel, just beyond Leinster Terrace, is Halepi Restaurant & Kebab House. A family-owned and -operated Greek restaurant, the dining space is intimate, inviting and the kitchen is well within view of the tables. We enjoyed grilled calamari, humus, lamb kebab with chips, peppers and radishes, a bottle of St. Emilion red wine and steak. The restaurant is considered the best Greek one in all of London.
Artist Nic Fiddian-Green’s bronze sculpture, Still Water, dominates the Marble Arch part of Hyde Park.
The Park’s fountains were commissioned by Cllr. Colin Barrow, CBE, for the City of Westminster :
“Hearts at peace, under an English heaven.” ― Rupert Brooke
Forming a gorgeous green space between Kensington and Westminster is Kensington Gardens & Palace, an oasis of calm in the heart of London’s bustling downtown.
“I find peace where the sun-kissed leaves dance in the melody of the cool breeze that floats through the air.” ― Saim Cheeda
Photo Gallery | The Kensington Gardens :
Leinster Terrace is known for the rows of Victorian homes along Bayswater, opposite Hyde Park.
Libations. While in the city, enjoy the limited edition lager, Carling’s Zest, with a hint of orange spice.
“An intelligent man is sometimes forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools.” ― Ernest Hemingway
Also look for Einstök Icelandic Pale Ale as London is one of the few places outside of Iceland you can enjoy this incredible beer, brewed in a fishing village 60 miles south of the Arctic Circle and with water from ancient glaciers.
The London Eye was erected for the 2000 Millennium celebration.
Originally intended as a temporary installation, it offers one of the highest views of the city, second only to the Shard. Not for the faint of heart, the Ferris wheel stands at 135 meters and is so popular it is now a permanent attraction along the Thames. For those daring enough to board one of its glass pods, the 360 degree views of London are spectacular.
Machine-A is known for its smart clothing and gallery-style presentation. Clothes from established designers are sold alongside up and coming talent whose names are not yet global brands. The looks are wearable in a space that’s very high concept.
Cockspur, Strand and Whitehall Streets converge south of Trafalgar Square into the roundabout Charing Cross.
The neighbourhood is the location of the Statue of Charles I; Nelson’s Column, honouring Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson who died at the Battle of Trafalgar; and most importantly, The National Gallery, one of the greatest art museums in the world.
Photo Gallery | Charing Cross & Trafalgar Square :
Although smaller than the British Museum, the National Gallery still features an impressive collection of thousands of paintings devoted to Western art.
Photo Gallery I | The National Gallery :
In the early 1990’s, the Gallery’s much-needed expansion resulted in the Sainsbury Wing, a modern addition to the more classical architecture of the original Wilkins Building.
Photo Gallery II | The National Gallery :
We purchased Oyster Visitor Travel Cards directly from http://www.VisitBritainShop.com and they were indispensable. I ordered them with UK$30.00 pre-loaded and they were delivered within a week to the States. We used them extensively on the city’s buses, which run like clockwork and maneuver downtown traffic effortlessly. Not only do they spare you from constantly looking for loose change but use of the cards guarantees the best fares possible.
The Palace of Westminster, i.e., the House of Parliament, is the site of the House of Commons and House of Lords, serving as both the political hub of the United Kingdom and a royal residence.
The Gothic building is such an iconic part of the skyline, it must be seen and experienced in person, and its presence on the river Thames, with its Elizabeth Tower―Big Ben―is the very definition of majestic.
Photo Gallery | Porchester Terrace :
Pret-a-Manger has a number of locations throughout China, France, Hong Kong, the United Kingdom and the United States. Although it’s a global brand, it should not be mistaken for chain food―on the contrary. The company prides itself on food prepared at each location and only with the freshest ingredients.
I had the pleasure of visiting their location on Queensway, off Bayswater Road, on a regular basis. All it took was one bite of their almond croissant and I was hooked. The shelves were stocked frequently with freshly-made baguettes, salads, sandwiches and soups. The staff is extremely friendly, helpful and immediately welcomed us a regulars.
Randomness and Fleet Street. One of the city’s busiest streets, Fleet was originally home to a number of printing and publishing businesses, most of which have since relocated to other parts of London.
“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” ― Marcel Proust
The Victorian Gothic style of the Royal Courts of Justice, designed by George Edmund Street and built in the 1870’s, looms large on the Strand in London :
London fired a shot heard round the world of architecture when it unveiled The Shard, a 95-story modern skyscraper, designed by the renowned Renzo Piano, wrapped in glass and in the shape of a pyramid near London Bridge. Instantly, traditional London transformed itself and demanded to be taken seriously in embracing modernity. Visitors now have the chance to see the entire city and savour the views from high above.
“A truly great book should be read in youth, again in maturity and once more in old age, as a fine building should be seen by morning light, at noon and by moonlight.” ― Robertson Davies
Located on the glass building’s 32nd floor is Oblix, Chef Rainer Becker’s restaurant and lounge. Having already created note-worthy dining establishments in other parts of the city, Becker has made The Shard a building with destination dining as patrons’ views of the city are unparalleled.
Photo Gallery | The Shard :
This modern tower is not a one-hit wonder either. Designed by Pelli Clarke Pelli Architects and located along the city’s famed Victoria Street, 62 Buckingham Gate is unlike many buildings in London. Imagine an architect creating glass and steel origami with the ease and angles of that created with scratch paper. The result is startling and brilliant.
Trying to find The Sir John Soane Museum may prove to be a challenge but the payoff is worth it.
Located along Lincoln’s Inn Fields near Remnant Street, south of the Holborn metro stop, the row house features antiquities, paintings, sculptures and sketches in a layout resembling an Escher painting.
Rooms are linked via soaring spaces and mazes so unconventional, it can be a disorienting experience. And one you will enjoy and never forget. It should be noted, the museum is temporarily closed and at the time of our visit, photography was not allowed.
The Tate Modern. One of the greatest modern art museums in the world, the Tate should be on your must-see list.
Located in the Bankside area south of the Thames, the museum occupies what was once the Bankside Power Station. Its now iconic chimney can be seen from nearly everywhere in the city.
When you enter, your first impression will be, “wow,” as the soaring turbine hall forms the entrance and what a statement it makes.
The museum features contemporary works from local artists and those abroad. The building is divided into two main wings, East and West, each of which features smaller galleries. Because of the museum’s size, seeing it in one day is an exercise in futility. To fully appreciate it, spend one day in the East wing; then return another day for the West.
Admission is free for the permanent exhibitions but tickets need to be purchased for temporary shows.
Photo Gallery | The Tate Modern :
For exceptional Thai cuisine, visit Thai Square Restaurant at 136 – 138 Minories, Tower. They have a number of locations throughout London, but the award-winning Thai Square should not be perceived as a chain restaurant and what they serve is certainly not chain food.
The restaurant is gorgeous, decorated with fresh flowers, tea lights and warm wood.
Aficionados of the Southeast Asian cuisine appreciate their appetizers alone are filling and works of art. We started off with wine and Duck Spring Rolls―shredded duck wrapped in crispy pastry, stuffed with cabbage, spring onions and carrots, and served with house special hoisin sauce.
กินเพื่อมีชีวิตอยู่ … และอาศัยอยู่ที่จะกิน
In other words, “Eat to live…and live to eat,” a well-known Buddhist quote and one that beautifully describes the experience of enjoying Thai cuisine.
We then enjoyed :
― Drunken Noodles. Spicy stir-fried fried flat rice noodles with beef, fresh chillies, green vegetables, long beans, garlic and basil leaves.
― Pad Thai. Thailand’s famous rice noodles, stir-fried with egg, tofu, bean sprouts, spring onions and crushed peanuts.
― Papaya Salad. Green papaya mixed with chillies, tomatoes, long beans, lime juice, garlic and nuts.
― Steamed Thai Jasmine Rice.
Dishes are served at a variety of heat levels. For those brave enough, one can order many “Thai style,” a level of spiciness that will have you sweating profusely and begging for relief. The culinary experience is well worth it, however. The meal and service was exceptional, easily one of the best Thai restaurants we have experienced.
Thistle has a number of properties in London, all of which are located in excellent neighborhoods, close to public transportation and major attractions. Although I stayed at their Kensington Gardens hotel, I stopped in the adjacent one, the Thistle Hyde Park, for after-dinner drinks and to enjoy their lobby and bar which were both decorated for the holidays.
On Bryanston Street near Portman Square and Hyde Park is the Amba Marble Arch Hotel (formerly the Thistle.) The customer service is excellent and the property’s public areas are immaculate as was my room.
The Lounge is located in the main lobby and offers afternoon tea service. It has a light menu and the interior definitely has a masculine vibe to it. The Glenn Miller Bar features great drinks and the bartenders are affable, offering much-valued advice on pubs and restaurants frequented by locals. The range of customers enjoying themselves included business people, a couple of media types and visitors staying for a few days before traveling onward to Canada.
The hotel offers a number of specials / package deals exclusively via its website. I recommend signing up for its offers via e-mail which may be, in some instances, all you need to prompt you to make the trip to London, even on short notice. When I returned to the city several months later, the Marble Arch was fully booked but they gladly referred me to their sister property, The Thistle Kensington Gardens.
My accommodations were spectacular and overlooked Kensington Gardens.
The room featured generous closet space; coffee and tea service; a king-size bed; bathrobes and thick cotton towels; excellent amenities; and the bathroom was the epitome of well-thought out design, with modern features.
Just as the Empire State Building defines New York City’s skyline and the Eiffel Tower defines that of Paris, the iconography of London’s Tower Bridge cannot be overstated. Crossing the Thames River, the suspension bridge links Tower Hamlets on the north side to Southwark on the south.
The design, by Horace Jones and George D. Stevenson, was not initially greeted with enthusiasm.
Photo Gallery I | Tower Bridge :
But it has stood the test of time and underwent face-lifts for both the Queen’s Silver Jubilee and the 2012 Summer Olympics.
Photo Gallery II | Tower Bridge :
Just as language limits what can be said, architecture limits where one can walk, but the walker invents other ways to go.” ― Rebecca Solnit
Photo Gallery III | Tower Bridge :
Food is raised to culinary art at Tredwells Restaurant in the city’s famous West End.
“There is no spectacle on earth more appealing than that of a beautiful woman in the act of cooking dinner for someone she loves.” ― Thomas Wolfe
Chef Chantelle Nicholson has created an understated space with an industrial look and a menu based on sustainability and seasonally-available items.
The service is impeccable―from the moment we walked in, to table service, to dessert and after-dinner drinks. The menu is based on a modern approach to traditional British dishes, sometimes as a result of fusion with Asian ingredients. While there, we enjoyed :
― deep-fried Brussel sprouts, miso
― halibut, mussels, leeks
― homemade sourdough
― Jerusalem artichoke agnolotti, bacon consommé
― prawns
― truffled cauliflower cheese
― young beef chuck, parsnips, watercress
Chef Nicholson succeeds in creating not just memorable food but a spectacular dining experience, one that we savored long after we departed London.
“Cooking is at once child’s play and adult joy. And cooking done with care is an act of love.” ― Craig Claiborne
The Underground. London’s Metro, aka The Tube, is comprised of 11 different lines, serving close to 300 stations.
Even though the system is the oldest in the world, it remains a marvel. The signage is easy to understand; the system serves the entire city as well as outer environs; and payment for use is handled via the previous referenced, contactless Oyster Card.
Photo Gallery :
Transport for London (TFL,) the agency which manages the system has an excellent app for Android and iPhone platforms. It features :
― Can be used with and without internet connection;
― compare the time and cost of different routes to see when it’s faster or cheaper to take the bus;
― journey planner and step-by-step directions.
― navigation around disruptions with real-time information.
― obtain detailed station information about toilets, cash and ticket machines, WIFI access and taxi ranks;
― save your favourite routes for faster route planning when on the go;
― updates on delays and closures;
― uses live data on station information and train times; and
― view your closest Underground stations from any location.
The world’s most extensive museum devoted exclusively to decorative arts and design, The Victoria and Albert is an essential experience.
Nearly 150 galleries form one of the world’s greatest collections of antiquities, ceramics, costumes, furniture, glass, ironworks, jewelry, photography, silver, sketches, sculpture and textiles. Extensive renovations have greatly expanded the museum’s original footprint, an absolute necessity in order to showcase its more than 2 million objects.
Photo Gallery | The Victoria and Albert Museum :
Westminster, located in central London, is the very definition of majestic.
The area, which is located on the North Bank of the Thames, features one of the highest concentrations of architectural and historical buildings in the city, all of which are easily walkable.
Buckingham Palace, the Foreign & Commonwealth Office, the Horse Guards Building, the House of Parliament, the Palace of Westminster, Westminster Abbey and Westminster Cathedral are just some of the spectacular and historic buildings populating the area.
Where to Stay In London :
“Do not neglect to show hospitality to strangers, for by doing that some have entertained angels without knowing it.”
― On Bryanston Street near Portman Square and Hyde Park is the Amba Marble Arch Hotel. Featuring The Lounge and The Glen Miller Bar, the customer service is excellent and the property’s public areas are immaculate as was my room.
― The CitizenM Hotel Bankside property is located in the heart of the city near the Tate Museum and perfect for those looking for something above and beyond the bigger hotel chains.
― CitizenM Tower of London Hotel. Hip, modern and reasonably priced, it’s as if the editors of Wallpaper* magazine―considered sacred text for style aficionados everywhere―had dinner with the most noteworthy designers across Scandinavia and then given blank canvases, from which they created the ultimate accommodations for savvy travelers.
― The Thistle Hyde Park is located between their Kensington Garden property and the Amba Marble Arch.
― Thistle Hotel Kensington Garden features generous closet space; coffee and tea service; a king-size bed; bathrobes and thick cotton towels; excellent amenities; and the bathroom was the epitome of well-thought out design, with modern features.
I stumbled upon Ye Grapes on Shepherd Street and was struck by the pub’s authenticity as it seemed to be from another era. As it turns out, it has been in existence for decades and the building itself is well over 100 years old. Located a few blocks from the Underground’s Green Park station, via the Jubilee, Piccadilly and Victoria lines, the pub is frequented by locals on a regular basis, always a good sign. The service is friendly and the pints of ale refreshing. When weather permits, patrons spill out onto the “ledge” and it’s well worth the effort.
We walked past Zizzi Ristorante on Bayswater Road one blustery night and immediately stopped as the smell of warm bread enticed us.
What an unexpected surprised it turned out to be. It has a number of locations throughout the city but each one has its own charming and inviting feel. After promptly being seated, we glanced at our menus and decided on :
― Arancini. Risotto balls with mozzarella, peas and a breadcrumb coating, and served with a tomato peperonata dip.
― The Skinny Pizza. Topped with artichokes, goat cheese, peppers, roasted aubergine, slow roasted tomatoes and olives.
― Spaghetti Carbonara. Prepared with pancetta, parsley, thyme and wild mushrooms.
― Chocolate Tartufo. A dark chocolate mousse served with crushed hazelnuts, amaretti biscuits and Frangelico liqueur finished off the meal.
The meal was very, very good but the spaghetti carbonara was the stand-out.
GUIDE TO MANCHESTER
Introduction. Along with Edinburgh and London, Manchester is one of the most visited cities in the United Kingdom. The mere mention of her name brings to mind two of the most celebrated football teams in the world―Manchester City and Manchester United. It is a city, however, that has so much more to it, i.e., an excellent dining and pub scene and architecture.
A number of global cuisines can be enjoyed without having to travel far. Casual strolls down many of her streets reveal historical and contemporary buildings side by side, creating a unique skyline and adventures in wanderlust to be enjoyed at ground level. Beetham Tower, Etihad Stadium, Manchester Art Gallery, Manchester Cathedral, the neoclassical Manchester Central Library and Piccadilly Station are just some of the destinations worth visiting.
When strolling in the city centre, you cannot help but be awestruck by Beetham Tower, one of the thinnest skyscrapers in the world.
Dominating Manchester’s skyline, the building doesn’t simply sit at much as she hovers, delicately posing and seemingly defying gravity.
Photo Gallery | Beetham Tower :
Walking down St. Ann Street on an overcast and chilly day, the air was filled with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and pastries. That’s all I needed to stop by Blacksheep Coffee. This location, one of three in the city, has a great vibe to it―casual, comfortable, inviting.
With hot and chilled beverages to order, and something sweet alongside, the visit is well worth it. Blacksheep invites her customers to linger, with soft lighting and woods and comfortable sitting areas.
Photo Gallery | Downtown Manchester :
Manchester Art Gallery. Located on Mosley Street, this nifty museum is more than worthy of your time.
The gallery originally consisted of 2 buildings, constructed in the late 1820’s. The extensive collection of ceramics, drawings, furniture, glass, metal works, miniatures, oil paintings, sketches and watercolours, however, necessitated an expansion.
Photo Gallery | The Original Buildings :
A design competition in 2002 resulted in a third building, linked by an award winning series of glass and steel structures, and allowing the gallery to fully display its more than 25,000 objects.
Photo Gallery | The Expansion Project :
And the cafe features very good coffee and pastries for when you need a respite.
Photo Gallery | The General Collection :
The Gallery’s Nordic Craft and Design Exhibition was excellent.
“Simplicity is about subtracting the obvious and adding the meaningful.” ―
Featuring timeless designs from Denmark, Finland, Norway and Sweden, the exhibition showcased fashion, furniture, glassworks and lighting.
Photo Gallery | Nordic Craft and Design :
“Good design is obvious. Great design is transparent.” ― Joe Sparano
Manchester Museum. Located across the street from the University of Manchester, this museum extensive collection showcasing anthropology, archeology, botany, earth science and wildlife.
Photo Gallery | General Collections :
Manchester Central Rail Station was one of the biggest stations in the country.
It has since been converted to a conference centre in an area characterized by bold architure, the most noteworthy of which is Beetham Tower.
Photo Gallery | Manchester City Centre :
Try Thai Restaurant.
Struck By Wanderlust Blog 
Hi David-kevin, Great updates on London! I am forwarding the link on Paris to my wife who is taking our oldest for a week. Always great suggestions!
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Very cool, sir. Let me know of the information is of help to her.
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